2013.12.08 芭芭拉-胡拉尼基，毕巴的设计师

shiyi18

Released On: 08 Dec 2013Available for over a year
Kirsty Young's castaway is Barbara Hulanicki, designer and creator of Biba.

Today her creativity spans fashion, illustration, interior design and architecture but it was the success of the label Biba that first made her name; launching a high street revolution with its opulent-looking but entirely affordable high fashion. According to Twiggy, "she changed fashion in England singlehandedly".

A newspaper advert for a £3 pink gingham dress in 1963 kicked things off and by the seventies her London department store was a throbbing temple to all things skinny-fitted in plum, mulberry, green, brown and black. Romantic, mysterious, nostalgic and very profitable. But when it all turned sour with her business partners, she and her husband Fitz walked away, leaving behind the hugely popular creation that had made her name.

The fantasy and perfection of her creations were a far cry from the harsh reality of her childhood; born in Poland just before the Second World War, the air of privilege that surrounded her family was traumatically punctured when her father, a diplomat, was assassinated.

She says "Now whenever I finish something I take some photographs and say 'goodbye'. When you lose everything, you realise that the only thing you have is what's in your head."



发布日期：2013年12月08日发布时间：一年多以来
克斯蒂-杨的弃儿是芭芭拉-胡拉尼基，毕巴的设计师和创造者。

今天，她的创造力横跨时装、插图、室内设计和建筑，但她的名字最早是通过Biba品牌的成功而获得的；以其华丽的外观和完全可负担的高级时装发起了一场高街革命。据特维吉说，"她一手改变了英国的时尚"。

1963年，报纸上一则3英镑的粉色格子裙广告拉开了序幕，到了70年代，她在伦敦的百货公司是一个令人振奋的殿堂，所有的紧身衣服都是梅子、桑葚、绿色、棕色和黑色的。浪漫的、神秘的、怀旧的，而且非常有利可图。但是，当她和她的商业伙伴的关系变坏时，她和她的丈夫菲茨离开了，留下了使她的名字大受欢迎的作品。

她创作的幻想和完美与她童年的残酷现实相去甚远；在第二次世界大战之前，她出生在波兰，当她的父亲--一位外交官--被暗杀时，围绕着她家庭的特权空气被创伤性地刺穿了。

她说："现在，每当我完成一件事，我都会拍一些照片，说'再见'。当你失去一切时，你会意识到你唯一拥有的东西就是你脑子里的东西"。